Alternator Workshop

[SONYPS23]

Hi, new on here, just need some info on the old alternator workshop message please.

 

It started about two months ago, I would start the car and then get the alternator workshop message, and as I knew my Alternator was on the way out I got a new one, but I still got the message so I swap the Alternator for another one, thinking it was faulty, but still got the message, so I got the battery tested and it was bad so I got a new battery, but I'm still get the message. I have taken it my mates garage and he found two codes on the ECU and cleared them, the message went, for an hour or so, now went I start the car the battery light stays on until I rev the engine and 9 times out of 10 the Alternator workshop message pops up, the ECU is still clear of codes and its all charging, but I just don't like the message coming up. Also I've read about the burning fuse box that Galaxy's have and my Alternator cable wasn't burnt but didn't look right so I've cut it back and put a new connector on, but I still get the message.

 

So should I a new fuse box and Alternator cable?

 

Or is there something else?

 

Any ideas would be great.

 

Thanks

 

Michael

[SONYPS23]

Anyone?

[chrispb123456]

Check the charging current at the alternator (large cable) also at the battery and battery fuse box you should be getting around 14.4 volts with engine running at fast idle and with lights etc on.

Check for heat on the two large cable terminals in battery fuse box when engine has been running a few minutes.

[a18nkd]

could be a broken wire or a loose connection some where on the charging wires as when there is a established current from the alternator this light should go out  

[nicebutdim]

Also make sure all the earth connections are clean and secure between the engine and the body. So many issues can be caused by an insecure earth. 

[SONYPS23]

Just ordered a multimeter, so will check the volts soon and the top cable seemed warmish when I felt it after a 15 min drive.

[chrispb123456]

The heat is due to the high resistance between the cable and the crimped terminal, if it's caught early enough you can clean and solder the crimps (something that was omitted originally)

this may be part or all of the problem.

[SONYPS23]

Just tested the battery and fuse box, on tick over without me revving the engine battery was at 12V and the cable in fuse box was 11.90V, battery light still on too, after me revving the engine battery light goes out, no message this time, battery and fuse both over 14V. New cable and fuse box or solder the cable? Edited May 21, 2013 by SONYPS23

[SONYPS23]

Bump

[a18nkd]

I would try soldering the crimps first then see what the wire feels like after that if it's still too hot the may need re-newing

[chrispb123456]

Remove the lead from the fuse box and solder the lead, you will need to do this with a blow lamp owing to the size of cable, if fuse box is still OK refit lead, if it is burnt or melted you will need to replace it.

You can then recheck the voltages for improvement as 12 volt on tickover is low.

 

[SONYPS23]

Ok thanks

[SONYPS23]

Been a long time, but only just got round to doing this! Solder the top cable today but still not getting over 12 volts unless I Rev the engine, fuse box seems ok maybe change the cable? How easy/hard is changing the cable? Is there any other reason why the alternator doesn't kick in on start up without revving?

[BrianH]

you might have not got enough solder onto the cable to get a decent connection for high current to pass - does the cable still get warm? Given that its been left not working for some time theres a good chance the cable is now knackered anyway due to the prolonged effect of heat on the cable.

[SONYPS23]

You’re probably right, I haven't soldered in years and it was a bit tricky doing it while the cable was still in the car, I've brought some 170A cable and going to make a new one myself in the shed, I think I'll be able to do a much better job then. Thanks for the info.

 

[BrianH]

have a check with the multimeter of the resistance of the cable in question - it may show your problem up. Either way making a replacement sounds like the sensible course to take (alot easier to solder it in your shed than on the car!)

[SONYPS23]

Sorry but do I measure the resistance?

[SONYPS23]

*how do I

[BrianH]

get hold of a multimeter

disconnect both ends of the cable and see what it reads (should be fairly low reading) with it set to the ohms setting (put one of the leads on one end of the cable you want to test, other one on the other end).

[chrispb123456]

Try using a jump lead from the large alternator terminal directly to the battery positive terminal then check output voltage, this will bypass alternator lead and fuse box.

[SONYPS23]

The resistance of the old cable seems to be the same as the new one? I used the jump lead and it when from 12V to 13.5V so alternator works. Just fitted new cable but battery very low so not great from testing, but it's seems like it's charge straight away with no revving or error message on dash. Just charging the battery up to make sure, fingers crossed!

[BrianH]

may not be able to see the fault with a meter (it may break down under load hence appears fine with meter, but unable to carry the current at low revs - higher revs would generate more current overcoming this).

 

Either way if its got rid of the error message it sounds like you have isolated the issue to the cable, if its charging now then it should be problem solved.

[SONYPS23]

Still getting the error message now and then, is it worth getting a new fuse box now?

[BrianH]

I'd try charging the battery as well. Does the connection to the fusebox look like its melted or been effected by heat? Rest of the connections fully tightened?

[SONYPS23]

Yes I must get the battery 100% fully charged I agree, the fuse box looks good it was only the old cable that look slightly burnt, I'll check all the connections tomorrow, but I think everyone is tight.